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Re: [OA] Using patterns in books RE: [OA] Which glue? [OA] Which glue? RE: [OA] Using patterns in books Re: [OA] Which glue? Re: [OA] Japanese Rice Paper [OA] OA Chat? RE: [OA] OA Chat? Re: Re[2]: [OA] Using patterns in books ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 14:50:05 -0800 From: "N. David Martin" Organization: ndavid paper artist X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en]C-NECCK (Win95; U) To: oa@deepwizardry.com Subject: Re: [OA] Using patterns in books Sender: owner-oa@deepwizardry.com Reply-To: oa@deepwizardry.com Hi All!...May I describe my method of transferring patterns/images/clipart/etc. to cardstock: I scan/acquire these through a graphics program, edit as desired, and send the screen-image to an old dot-matrix printer with the printer-ribbon taken out altogether; the result is intaglio lines wherever the ink would have been. I cut and/or score on these lines, which are quite visible under an angle-adjustable table-lamp. Pretty much all evidence of these lines disappear in the cutting and scoring process. I mainly use 67 pound stock which is light enough that cutting and scoring can all be done on the intaglio-line side. David Andrew Crawford wrote: > Greetings Tracy! > > At 08:22 AM 1/27/2000 -0600, Tracy Steeper wrote: > >I am also new to this craft and have a practical question-- > > > >What are the best methods of taking patterns from books without destroying the > >original book or pattern? I have been using the pinprick method and a Xerox > >copy of the pattern I want, but I wonder if there is a better way. How > >have you solved this problem? > > I have tried several approaches in the past. Currently, I make a copy of > the pattern and affix it (with drafting tape) to the piece of paper I want > to use for the OA. I put the printed side sandwiched in the middle. Then, > I put it on my (homemade) light table. That way, I can see the lines well > enough to score and cut without making any marks on the paper that will > become the finished piece. > > >I am receiving blind carbon copies of all correspondence, and as such have no > >idea who else is out there on the OA mail list. Is there a way I can find out > >(or know how large the list is?) > > > >Tracy Steeper (tsteeper@allina.com) > > The list is set up that way so that people with commercial interests can't > get your email address easily and use it to send you unsolicited commercial > messages (spam.) > > Last time I checked, there were about 20 subscribers. > > Andrew Crawford > Andrew@Evermore.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Gerry Stormer" To: oa@deepwizardry.com Subject: RE: [OA] Which glue? Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 17:07:51 -0600 X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) Importance: Normal Sender: owner-oa@deepwizardry.com Reply-To: oa@deepwizardry.com Michael, I'm not familiar with PVA glue but it sounds like it's a water-based glue since you're having problems with the corners curling. Most water-based glues will cause curling when it dries no matter what type of paper you use. I'm currently using something called paper cement and it seems to work very well. I have no problems with curling and it's very easy to clean off the excess glue. Paper cement is very similar to rubber cement but, I've found, rubber cement has a tendency to come unglued over time. You might also look into Henzo photographic glue. I've tried this and it works quite well but it is rather expensive and hard for me to get. Regards, Gerry Stormer gstormer@home.com http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/HobbyCt/gstormer/ -----Original Message----- From: owner-oa@deepwizardry.com [mailto:owner-oa@deepwizardry.com]On Behalf Of M.Toomey Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2000 8:18 AM To: 'oa@deepwizardry.com' Subject: [OA] Which glue? Hi, I've only recently discovered OA and I'm hooked but I have a couple of problems........here's one! I've been using 220 gsm Cartridge paper up until now and have been backing my pop-ups with coloured card, (which is of unknown "weight" but which seems to be at least as stiff as the paper). My trouble is that the finished card often curls in at the corners. I am using PVA glue as sparingly as possible. What is the problem? Will the problem disappear if I move on to Watercolour paper? Can someone recommend a different glue? (NB I'm in the UK). Michael Toomey ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Gerry Stormer" To: oa@deepwizardry.com Subject: RE: [OA] Using patterns in books Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 17:18:00 -0600 X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) Importance: Normal Sender: owner-oa@deepwizardry.com Reply-To: oa@deepwizardry.com Tracy, I also use the pinprick method and a Xerox copy of the pattern and, in my opinion, the is no better way. I've tried many different methods for doing OA and this is the method I'm most comfortable with. I recently tried printing the pattern directly on the card stock and my work wasn't as "clean" and precise as it is with the pin prick method. Many people attach the pattern to the card stock and cut through the pattern and card stock all at the same time. I don't like this method because I can't see what I'm cutting. I can see the pattern I'm cutting through but not the card stock itself and I don't like doing it this way at all. I've never tried this method with a light box but I can't see how that would help too much. Plus, doing it this way, you can go through a lot of patterns since you can only use the pattern to make one card. I like being able to see exactly where to start and stop my cuts and the pin prick method is the best method for being able to do this. Having a small hole (which disappears when cut through) I know exactly where to start and stop. With other methods I've tried I haven't been able to do this and those cards have looked sloppy. Other methods are much quicker but I refuse to sacrifice quality for quantity. But, like I tell everyone that's asked how I do OA, use the method that you're most comfortable with. Try other methods out and then decide which one best suits you. Regards, Gerry Stormer gstormer@home.com http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/HobbyCt/gstormer/ -----Original Message----- From: owner-oa@deepwizardry.com [mailto:owner-oa@deepwizardry.com]On Behalf Of Theresa Steeper Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2000 8:23 AM To: oa@deepwizardry.com Subject: [OA] Using patterns in books I am also new to this craft and have a practical question-- What are the best methods of taking patterns from books without destroying the original book or pattern? I have been using the pinprick method and a Xerox copy of the pattern I want, but I wonder if there is a better way. How have you solved this problem? I am receiving blind carbon copies of all correspondence, and as such have no idea who else is out there on the OA mail list. Is there a way I can find out (or know how large the list is?) Tracy Steeper (tsteeper@allina.com) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Gerry Stormer" To: oa@deepwizardry.com Subject: RE: [OA] Japanese Rice Paper Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 17:23:30 -0600 X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) Importance: Normal Sender: owner-oa@deepwizardry.com Reply-To: oa@deepwizardry.com Michael, I use a single sheet, with the center line half-cut so it will open and close correctly. Then, for the backing sheet, I use two separate sheets of card stock but I don't join them with anything for it's not necessary to do so if it's done neatly. When I attach each half I make sure they meet exactly at the center fold line so, when the card is opened, the meet precisely and the 180º card sits nice and flat as it's supposed to. When the card is closed, the center fold line and the two halves of card stock look great (if neatly applied) so I've found using anything is a waste of time and money. If you are intent on using something to attach the two halves, I don't think tissue paper would be strong enough or look very good but the material would look alright I guess. Regards, Gerry Stormer gstormer@home.com http://msnhomepages.talk.city.com/HobbyCt/gstormer/ -----Original Message----- From: owner-oa@deepwizardry.com [mailto:owner-oa@deepwizardry.com]On Behalf Of M.Toomey Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2000 8:26 AM To: 'oa@deepwizardry.com' Subject: [OA] Japanese Rice Paper Hi! I'm about to try my first constructed pop-up using one of Masahiro Chatani's patterns. He suggests using separate pieces of card for the base, (and backing), joined with Japanese Rice Paper for the hinge so that the card opens out nice and flat. I haven't found any in the Art shops over here (UK) and was wondering what others have used instead! Would two or three layers of tissue paper suffice? A strip of Calico similar fabric? Michael Toomey ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: KSelena@aol.com Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 22:22:19 EST Subject: Re: [OA] Which glue? To: oa@deepwizardry.com X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows sub 54 Sender: owner-oa@deepwizardry.com Reply-To: oa@deepwizardry.com Slightly heavier weight paper might help the curling problem, but maybe you need to switch your brand of PVA glue. My current favorite glue is also a permanent PVA adhesive, a white liquid archival glue by Lineco called Neutral pH Adhesive. At first, I didn't like it as I had some warping/buckling problems. But after experimenting, I found that it works well if I apply only a little pressure on the bottle and move it fairly quickly over the paper surface. That way the glue comes out on the paper as tiny beads spaced a little bit apart. Less is definitely more in this case. So far, I've had no problem with any cards coming unstuck and no more problems with warping. The Lineco Neutral pH Adhesive is avail. in the USA at art/craft stores for around $4.25 for 4oz. It comes in a plastic squeeze bottle with a tapered tip which you have to cut (be sure to use a pin or something to make a very small opening). I don't know if the Lineco has a site or if the glue is available online. I do know that the company is based in Holyoke, Massachusetts. My previous favorite glue used to be Henzo photographic glue. I believe it's the one in the photos of several OA books and 1 or 2 Paul Jackson books. This glue is like rubber cement in a tube, only it's archival. It's the easiest glue to apply that I've ever used. It dries with no warping/buckling and any excess is easily rubbed away. You can buy it at art/crafts stores, for about $4 for a yellow 50ml tube about 6" long. I used to be in love with it, however, over time, I've found that this glue tends to come "unstuck," which is not so good, especially for OA you're going to give away. It also turns yellow over time (the glue itself, it doesn't stain the paper), so when it comes unstuck, it's not very attractive. K. Selena Kim Bridgewater, NJ USA http://members.aol.com/kselena/ http://members.aol.com/kselena/OA/oamainpg.html ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: KSelena@aol.com Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 22:30:27 EST Subject: Re: [OA] Japanese Rice Paper To: oa@deepwizardry.com X-Mailer: Windows AOL sub 54 Sender: owner-oa@deepwizardry.com Reply-To: oa@deepwizardry.com I have one suggestion for the base which I learned a couple years ago from Gerry Stormer. Instead of cutting it into 2 pieces and hinging with washi paper (rice paper), cut the base card to the full size and then score/half-depth cut along the central fold line (on the outside of the fold, of course). I've found that this works great and you don't have to mess about with gluing the washi paper. I've never had any OA model so bulky that it couldn't be done with a base "hinged" this way, and if you open the card a little more than 180° before bringing it back, it lays open flat without a problem. You will, however, want washi paper for constructing some models and for attaching models to the base (although Gerry also has another successful method of attaching strings using tiny -- and I mean tiny -- bits of the same cardstock as the model). I can't imagine that a good art or craft store with a selection of papers wouldn't carry or special order washi paper, but if so, you should check sources online. I think Paper Paradise may offer some washi paper: http://www.paperparadise.com/. And I think there's one other good place online, but I can't recall the name right now. You might also try tracking down a Japanese store in your area and calling them to see if they might have any. In any case, DO NOT USE regular tissue paper (such as you would use to wrap a gift) for the hinge. It does not have the fiber strength to stand up to repeated opening/closing of the card and will tear easily along the crease. Washi or Japanese rice paper is made of long fibers which make the paper almost fabric-like and while it can be delicate, it can also be surprisingly strong. Fabric may work, but you may run into problems of it being too bulky/thick (esp. when sandwiched between the base and the backing cards) or there might be problems with finding glue that will work well with both fabric & paper. You know, as I was writing that bit about the fibers, I had a thought: would used dryer fabric softener sheets work? The kind like "Bounce" that has that web-like fiber-y characteristic. I've never tried it, but if anyone's up for experimenting on some OA scraps ... it would be interesting to find out. K. Selena Kim Bridgewater, NJ USA http://members.aol.com/kselena/ http://members.aol.com/kselena/OA/oamainpg.html ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: KSelena@aol.com Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 22:46:28 EST Subject: [OA] OA Chat? To: oa@deepwizardry.com X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows sub 54 Sender: owner-oa@deepwizardry.com Reply-To: oa@deepwizardry.com Since we seem to be rolling along on this MailList, it might be a good time to think about also getting together for an online chat. I know we are spread all over the globe, so we'll have to do the best we can. In previous chats with a small circle of OAer's, we've found that 3pm (15:00) Eastern Standard Time (USA) on a weekend works well for those from Vancouver, Canada to Amsterdam, Holland. I'd like to suggest one for this Saturday, January 29th, 3pm EST (which is 12pm or 12:00 Vancouver time, and 9pm or 21:00 Amsterdam time). Usually, we chat for about one hour. Currently, it's possible for us to chat using either ICQ or the AOL Instant Messenger system. Information about both systems can be found at icq.com and aol.com . Both systems are not difficult to install and use. From past experience, it seems that ICQ is easier to use if there are 4 or fewer chatters and the AOL IM system is easier to use for higher number of chatters. If you are interested and available to chat, please contact me off-list at KSelena@aol.com, so that I can coordinate the chat room setup. If this weekend is not sufficient time for enough people to get the ICQ or AOL IM, perhaps we can settle on a chat for next weekend, Feb 5th? Hope to chat with you soon, K. Selena Kim Bridgewater, NJ USA http://members.aol.com/kselena/ http://members.aol.com/kselena/OA/oamainpg.html ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Ingrid & Erik" To: oa@deepwizardry.com Subject: RE: [OA] OA Chat? Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 08:48:50 +0100 X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook 8.5, Build 4.71.2173.0 Importance: Normal Sender: owner-oa@deepwizardry.com Reply-To: oa@deepwizardry.com Dear Selena, I'll try to be there on Saturday evening 21.00 hours. Liefs, Ingrid. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jenny Rolfe" To: oa@deepwizardry.com Subject: Re: Re[2]: [OA] Using patterns in books Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 18:48:30 -0000 X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 Sender: owner-oa@deepwizardry.com Reply-To: oa@deepwizardry.com First I scan, then tidy it up a bit, maybe even lighten the lines, then I print it out onto thick card and score along the fold lines and cut along the cut lines (the right way up) . What I mean about folding it backwards is that I fold the mountain folds as valley folds and vice versa so that the dark printed lines are on the inside of the model and therefore invisible. Obviously this does mean that you get a mirror image of the card that you were expecting but for most models I have found that this does not really make much of a difference ----- Original Message ----- From: Theresa Steeper To: Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2000 9:55 PM Subject: Re[2]: [OA] Using patterns in books > Jenny- > > Can you be more explicit about the scanning and printing and cutting backwards? > Do you mean that you print on heavy (65 lb or so) paper, flip over, and cut on a > light box so that the lines are on the back side of the finished product? > > Tracy > >
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